SisBoom Angie with Bonnie Circle Skirt

The title of this blog post gives away the surprise.

Recently The Crafting Fiend mashed the Scientific Seamstress & Sisboom Angie and Bonnie patterns.
In case you’ve been living under a rock, Angie is a perfect everyday dress.  I’ve made 3 and wish I had more.
Bonnie is a circle skirt pattern.  Circle skirts are always fun. Lots of flounce and make the booty look extra nice.

angie circle header

Today, I have a very quick tutorial for you on adding the Bonnie skirt (with pockets!) to the Angie bodice. It is extra super duper simple.

First, you need the patterns:

Print and cut the size you need. I did size small (0-2).  I’ve made several Angie dresses, so I’ve adjusted the bodice just how I like it.


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You will need:
2 skirt pieces cut on the fold (you don’t need the sash/waist piece) cut on fold
1 Front Angie bodice cut on fold-make sure to transfer the darts markings
1 Back Angie bodice cut on fold-make sure to transfer the darts markins
4 pocket pieces (2 cut mirrored)
Bais tape (pre-packaged or made)

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Fold the bodice right sides together, matching the dark lines.  Sew the dart in place.  You will repeat for 2 front darts and 2 back darts.


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This is how I like to sew darts.  I start from the bottom of the bodice, sew towards the peak.  When I’m about 1/2″ away from the peak, then I decrease my stitch length to 1 and sew right off the fabric. Don’t cut the threads and don’t tie a knot.  leave it just like this.  It won’t come undone since the stitch length is so short.  You don’t want to do anything that will add bulk to the peak of your dart (knots add bulk).
Open and press the darts outwards toward the sides.  Use a tailors ham to press the peak of the dart well.


2016-03-06 14.31.42Get your two bodice pieces.  Right sides together, sew the shoulders at 1/4″ SA.  Finish your raw edges.


2016-03-06 14.38.51There are two ways to do your binding.  You can have hidden binding or visible binding.  I do hidden binding.  If you want yours visible, then see the Angie pattern, page 12.

(For Hidden binding) Beginning along the middle back neckline, place the raw edge of your binding right sides together with the bodice.  Pin the binding around the entire neckline until you reach were you began.


2016-03-06 14.41.55It’s hard to see, but the beginning of your binding fold the raw end over on itself by 1/2″ or so.


2016-03-06 14.42.43Take the end of your binding and lay it over the beginning-overlapping by 1/2″ or so.


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Sew the binding in place at 1/4″ SA.  Beg sewing in front of your overlapping binding.  You want to sew the overlap last in case your binding “grows” as you sew and you can then adjust the end as needed.


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Turn the raw edge of your binding so wrong sides meet then fold the binding over again towards the wrong side of your bodice.  Your seam allowance will be incased in the binding.  Pin in place.  See next two photos.


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We will repeat what we just did with the neck to the arm cycles, but we will divide up the steps.
Pin the raw edge of your binding to the arm cycle.  Make sure to leave 1″ or so of binding hanging off the sides.  Stitch in place at 1/4″ SA.
Don’t fold over an top stitch just yet!


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Pulling your binding up and away from the bodice, match the sides and stitch in place. Finish raw edges as you desire.
Now fold the binding over and stitch it down.

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Turn it right side out and make sure all is to your liking.


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If you are not adding pockets, (and you should be) then simply place the two skirt pieces right sides together, stitch both side seams and finish your seams.  Skip down a few photos to where we will gather the skirt.

If you are adding pockets, grab all 4 pocket pieces and your two skirt pieces.  There are a few ways to finish the seams when adding pockets.  Here is my favorite method.
Finish edges of your skirt side seams and finish all edges of your pocket pieces-as above.


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Measure down 2″ from top side of your front skirt.  Place pocket right sides together, match straight edge with side.  Stitch in place at 1/4″ SA.  Repeat for the other front side and both back sides of the skirt.  Press the pocket and seam allowance away from the skirt.

Like my Winnie the Pooh socks?

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Lay your skirt pieces right sides together matching all sides.  Pin the side seam, around the pockets and down the sides together.


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Sew from the top down, around the pocket and down the side at 1/4″ seam allowance.  Repeat for the other side.


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Gather the top of your skirt.  I like to crack the tension all the way up and do the longest stitch length on my machine.  and BAM it gathers itself.  Flip your skirt wrong side out.  With your bodice right side out, slide you bodice into your skirt.  Your pieces will be right sides together.  Match side seams of your skirt with your bodice. Distribute the gathers evenly and match to the bodice.  The skirt will be very slightly gathered.  Sew in place at 1/4″ seam allowance.  Finish your seam.


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There are a few ways to sew the elastic along the back.  I do it like the Angie pattern says.  Simply cut your elastic as the pattern states.  Stretch it along the entire back from side seam to side seam (I had to cut two back panels-that’s why there is a seam there).  Pin the elastic in place and sew it with a straight stitch.
OR, you can create an elastic casing as in this Scientific Seamstress tutorial.


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Now hem your skirt.  I did a rolled hem, which is the easiest on circle skirts.  If you want a wide hem, I highly recommend doing it the Colette way.

BOOM! You’re done!


angie circle4

angie circle collage