Nora SAL Day 3

Day 3!

 

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Take your other main panel that does not have the tab sewn to it.  Find the middle of the panel (can you see my purple line down?)
Measure down
Small Handbag 3″
Large Handbag 3.5″
Traveler 3.5″
along the middle line.  Make another mark. Install the male part of the turn lock at your mark.

 

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Purse feet (optional)
For my Large handbag, I measure in by 2″ and down/up by 1.5″.

 

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Set aside all exterior pieces and grab the interior main panel piece you want the lining pocket on. fold the panel in half. Hand press .

 

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Open up, wrong side up.  Measure down from the panel along the middle line by 2″.

 

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Draw a centered rectangle:
Small Handbag 1/2″ x 7″
Large Handbag 1/2″ x 9″
Traveler 1/2 x 9″

Then measure 1/2″ inwards from both short ends and make a dot.  Draw a line from dot to dot.  Then draw short diagonal lines from the dot to each corner, as above.

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Flip your panel over and place you pocket piece on top (right sides together) and about 1 to 1.5″ down from the top, centered.

 

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Place 2 or 3 pins along the very very top of the pocket panel to hold in place.  I also like to pin the tail of the pocket down so it does not accidently get sewn up.

 

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Flip the panel over to the wrong side again and stich following only your rectangle lines.

Cut along the middle line and the diagonal lines.  Be careful to snip the diagonal lines to but not through your stitching.
Push the pocket piece through the opening to the wrong side of the panel.  Press the opening well.

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Using pins or a glue stick, or both, pin your zipper to the wrong side of the panel.  If using glue, give it a few minutes to dry.

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Stitch right along the edge around the whole rectangle.  You may need to move the zipper pull a few times.

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Clip off the excess zipper on each end.

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Fold up the tail of the pocket to match the top of the pocket panel.
We will stitch around the 3 raw edges of the pocket panel.

 

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To stitch the top of the pocket together, I like to fold down the top of the main panel and stitch with the main panel up.  Sew through only the pocket pieces, not the main panel.  Then I fold each side of the main panel out of the way and sew down each side of the pocket piece.

 

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Now lets get this baby put together!
Take an exterior main panel and the exterior bottom panel.  Line up one long edge of the bottom panel with the bottom edge of the main panel.  Pin and sew together at 1/2″ seam allowance.

 

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Take your other exterior main panel and do the same.

 

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On the wrong side, press the seam allowances towards the bottom panel.  Top stitch through the seam allowance on the bottom panel.  This will add strength .

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Repeat all the same instructions for the lining main panels and the lining bottom panel. Once again, top stitch through the seam allowances along the bottom panel.

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Grab all 4 of the side panels (exterior and lining).  We will sew up those darts.

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Fold the panel so the V edges of the darts align.

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Sew along the V at 1/4″ SA.  To make the prettiest dart, begin sewing at the bottom edge of the fabric.  Stitch with about 2.5 stitch length until about 1/2″ to the other end.  Change to a 1 stitch length and sew right off the fabric.  Do not back stitch!  Do not tie your threads!  This adds bulk and can results in a very pointy dart.  The super short stitch length will keep the dart from coming undone.  Obviously this is more important in dress making but I feel it’s always important to practice correct sewing at all times, even when it doesn’t really matter-like in this case)

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Press the seam allowance towards the center of the panel.
Repeat for the 3 other side panels.

One more day tomorrow!