Swoon Camille Sewalong Day 2: Flap

Today is all about the flap!  Let’s go!

IMG_2398You should have four buckle connectors.  Place one wrong side up and put the buckle connector template on top, centered.

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Draw a line starting at the bottom left all the way around the template to the “stopping point” indicator on the template. IMG_2400

Repeat on one more connector.

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Take one connector that you drew on and place it right sides together with a connector you did not draw on.
Repeat with remaining two connectors.

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Sew the connectors together, following the line you drew.

IMG_2403Trim the seam allowance online along the stitching line.  Do not cut the seam allowance on the part you did not sew!

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Turn right sides out.

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Press well, tucking in the seam allowance you did not cut off. the “tails” should be 1″ wide.

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From the tail end, measure down 4″ and make a mark on either side.

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Top Stitch from the tail end down to the 4″ mark.

IMG_2408Slide a female buckle on. (I used the male side.  It doesn’t really matter which side you use as long as you’re consistent.)

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Fold the raw tail under about 2.25″ towards the backside. Or until the raw edge matches the end of the 4″ top stitch line.

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Stitch as closely to the hardware as possible.  I used my zipper foot here.

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Repeat for the other connector and other female buckle end.

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Put the connectors aside and grab your handle piece.  Fold the handle in half, match long raw ends.
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Open the handle and fold each long raw edge towards the original fold, like above.IMG_2415

Now re-fold along the first original fold.  The handle should be 1″ wide.  (my pinkie finger knuckle to knuckle just so happens to be exactly 1″, isn’t that handy?)IMG_2416

Take the handle stabilizer and place it into one of the handle folds, centering 1.5″ away from each end.IMG_2417

Top stitch down each long end.

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Place the handle aside and get your flap support piece, wooden sticks, glue, marking tool, and measuring tool.  The wooden sticks are optional, however if you do not add them, the flap will sink in and honestly not look nice.  So, it’s not really optional in my book.  Don’t skip this step.

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ON THE NON-FUSIBLE SIDE, find the center of the flap support and the center of your wooden sticks.  Mark the center with a pencil (my sticks were 4.5″ not the recommended 6″ and it worked just fine)IMG_2420

Measure down 1/4″ from the top and again from the bottom of the support.  Mark IMG_2421

Take one stick, align the center marks of the support piece and the stick middle, making sure the top of the stick is at the 1/4″ mark you made.  Like above.  Do the same with the bottom stick.

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Glue the sticks in place.  Elmers glue does not work but rubber cement does.

 

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Take your second flap support stabilizer and place on top of the sticks, fusible side down against the sticks.  Baste around all edges at 1/8″
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Now we want to make sure the sticks don’t come unglued and slide around, so lets’s stitch them in place.  (we aren’t actually sewing over the sticks-definitely don’t do that-we are just going to create little bedrooms for them).
Measure 2.5″ from each short side and sew vertical lines down.
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Now measure 1.5″ from each long edge and stitch two long rows.  Your sticks are in little cubbies now.

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Set that aside, but in a very convenient place, and take your Exterior Flap piece wrong side up and curvy edge along the bottom.
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Measure 3″ down from the top straight piece.

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Place your Flap support Stabilizer wooden stick cubby piece and place it at the 3″ down mark centered, fusible side down and fuse that puppy on.

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Flip your flap over to the right side, curvy edge still along the bottom.  Measure down 4.25″ from the top straight edge on both sides.

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Find your handle piece.  Align the short raw edge of the handle piece with the side of the flap at the 4.25″ mark.  Pin the handle in place.  Then measure 4″ from the handle raw edge inward and mark.

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Following the same stitching line as your handle top stitch, stitch along the handle piece until you reach your 4″ mark.  Sew across the handle piece and back down again.

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I like to make two extra rows of stitches for strength.
Repeat the same process with the other side of the handle.  The middle will have slack-that is on purpose to make carrying the bag easier.

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Fold your flap in half, sides matching.

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Find the center of the curvy edge. Mark with a pin or marking tool.

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From the center, measure over 2.5″ on either side of the center.

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Pin or apply a little bit of fabric glue to the wrong side of a connector piece and place the connector on the flap so the interior side of the connector matches the 2.5″ mark.  Place the connector so the fold at the hardware hangs off by 1/2″.IMG_2442

Top stitch the connector on starting where you stopped from the tail top stitch, sew all the way around the top down to where the tail stitching starts again.
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It should look like this.  ^

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Now take the exterior flap side with the big side on the right. ^ that one

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Place the big side on the left side of the flap piece, right sides together as above.

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Start pining the top curve of the flap side along the left side of the flap.  Keep turning the flap side and pinning to create a 3D flap.

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Keep pinning…IMG_2449

The end of the flap side should meet up with the beginning of the V on the top of the flap.

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As you see, I had too much side flap (you could say that about my hips too)IMG_2451

If this happens to you, then make very small snips on the flap piece were the big curves of the flap side will fall.  IMG_2452

Ease the flap side in, pinning generously.  IMG_2453

Sew it on with a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Go slow and carefully.IMG_2454

Remember, the end of the flap side stops at the V!IMG_2455

One side finished.
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Repeat for the other side of the flap with the second side flap side. Trim the seam allowances.

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Exterior flap done!

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Repeat sewing the interior flap sides onto the interior flap panel exactly as you did with the exterior.

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Trim seam allowances.

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Right sides together, place the interior flap into the exterior.

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Tuck the buckles into the flap.

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Pin along the raw edges, matching seams.  The long straight edge does not get pinned and does not get sewed (where my hand is).

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Starting along the back straight edge, sew 1/2″ SA until you reach the V, pivot to the side panel, sew along the side, the front curvy part of the flap, up the other side, pivoting at the V then up to the straight edge.  The long straight edge will be left open.
IMG_2466Trim the seam allowances.


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Turn the flap through the opened long straight edge.

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Press well.

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More pressing.

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Baste the long straight edge opening closed at 1/4″ SAIMG_2473

 

Top Stitch the entire flap. You can stitch under or on top of your connectors.  I stitched on top for extra strength.

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Tomorrow we will finish the exterior of the bag!