Swoon Camille SAL Day 4: Finish

Last day!

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Take 2 lens compartment panel: one with foam and one with woven interfacing.

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Put them right sides together and sew along the top and bottom longer edges.  You will have a tube. Trim the seam allowances.

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Turn the tub right side out and press well.  Top stitch around all four edges at 1/4″.  Repeat for the two remaining pieces (one will have foam and one woven interfacing)
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Take of of the Lining gussets.  From the bottom (wide end) measure up 1.5″ on either side. See where my fingers are.

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Place one of the lens compartments so the bottom of the compartment meets up with the 1.5″ marks you made.  Pin one side of the lens compartment to the raw edge.

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Sew that side of the compartment to the gusset at 1/4″ allowance.

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Repeat for the other side of that lens compartment.  The compartment is wider than the gusset, so push it out of the way to sew the other side down.

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Repeat for the other lens compartment and the other lining gusset piece. Set aside for the moment.

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Grab the two remaining lining slip pocket pieces (one has woven interfacing and the other has foam).  Pin them right sides together and sew along the stop straight edge only at 1/2″ SA.

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Turn the pieces wrong sides together.  Press well.  Top stitch along the long straight edge and then continue to sew/baste the raw edges of the pocket pieces together.

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Take a lining main panel an lay the lining pocket piece on top of it, aligning the bottom and sides of the pocket.  Baste the pocket on the lining main panel at 1/4″ seam allowance. Set aside for a brief moment.

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Take the Buckle strap.  Fold in half, long ways.  Open and fold each raw edge towards the center and fold in half along original center crease.  JUST like we did on the strap. top stitch along each long edges.

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Fold the buckle strap in half long ways and cut in half.  Now you have two long buckle straps. They should be 5″ long and 1″ wide.

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I realize this is hard to see, but fold one raw end over by 1.5″ The side you fold over to will be sewn against the bag.  Slide a male buckle (or female depending on which you used for the flap) on to the 1.5″ fold you just made. If your buckle has a middle bar, that is where the strap attaches.  Stitch fold closed as close to the buckle as possible. Repeat for the other buckle and the other buckle strap.
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Take your exterior main panel (without the flap) fold in half to find the bottom middle.

 

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Measure 2.5″ right and left of the bottom middle.

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Place buckle straps down so that the interior edge of the strap is at the 2.5″ mark.  Pin or use a bit of glue to set them in place.

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Sew the straps on the exterior main panel going up one side, across and down.  You can put a few extra lines of support stitching along the top if you wish.

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Pin an exterior Gusset panel and the exterior bottom panel together along the bottom of the gusset (wider end) to a short side of the bottom panel.

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Stitch together with 1/2″ SA.

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Repeat with the bottom of the other exterior gusset and the other short end of the exterior bottom panel.

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Do the same with the lining bottom panel and the two lining gussets.

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The lining will look like such.  The exterior will be the same.

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Take the exterior gussett/bottom piece and fold in half, matching the seams.  Mark the center on both sides of the bottom panel with a pin or marking pen.

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Remember you found the middle of the exterior main panel you put the buckle straps on?  Match the middle of the bottom panel with the middle bottom of the exterior pain panel with the buckle straps.  Pin together.

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Pull up the gusset and pin to the top side of the exterior main panel. Repeat for pinning the other side of the gusset to the other side of the main panel.

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Working your way around, pin the gusset and bottom panel to the main exterior panel. IMG_2549

If needed, you may need to make snips on the gusset where it meets with the curve of the exterior main panel.  Your snips should be under 1/4″.

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I have this dumb video of how to sew the curves of the bag.  Feel free to pass it over 🙂

Once all pinned, sew the gusset on at 1/2″ seam allowance.  Trim seam allowance.

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Repeat the same process as above to sew the exterior main panel the other side of the gusset.  Keep the flap out of the way and be extra careful to not sew through it.

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We will sew the lining together the exact same way as the exterior.  Sew the gusset bottoms to the ends of the bottom panel.  Fold the entire thing in half to find the center of the bottom panel.  Mark both sides of the center.

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Have your two lining mail panel handy.

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Take one of the lining main panels and pin to the gusset, matching the bottom centers then pin the top of the gusset to the top of the main panel.  Pin everything in between.  Small snips along the gusset if necessary to make the curves easier.

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After one lining main panel is done.  Sew on the second lining main panel.

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With the lining wrong side out and the exterior right side out, place the exterior into the lining so they are right sides together.

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Pin the exterior and interior together, matching seams.  We will be ‘birthing’ this bag, so measure an 8″ portion along the back of the bag (where the flap is).  This part we will NOT sew closed.

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Start sewing at 1/2″ seam allowance, back stitch and sew around the entire top of the bag until you reach the other mark you made for your birthing canal.  Remember, the to of the lining gusset, we cut 1/2″ off of the fleece. Make sure you sew right along the fleece, but not through it.

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Trim the seam allowance down but DO NOT CUT THE opening where you did not sew! See above!

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Birth your bag.

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Press the top seam really well.

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Tuck your opening closed and press, press, press!

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Pin the opening closed.  I actually like to pin around the entire bag to keep the seam crisp.  Top stitch around the entire top of the bag at 1/4″ SA or so.  Tuck the flap down. DO NOT SEW THROUGH THE FLAP!

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Final steps!  The adjustable shoulder strap!
Slide the strap through one loop on your bag.  Tuck the raw edge down 1/2″ then fold up on the other side by 1″.  Stitch in place.  I do two lines of stitching.

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These pictures are sideways 🙁  The other raw end of your strap put up through the strap slide and down through the other opening.  Have some slack at the top.

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Same raw end, put through the other loop on the bag.

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Take the raw end again and go UP through the first opening in the strap slide.

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Now go DOWN through the second opening.  Things might be tight.  Man handle it.   You will need a few inches pull down but still need some slack on the loops above.

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As you did with the first raw edge, fold the raw edge under 1/2″ then stitch to the piece of strap on the left side.
Below is the diagram straight from the pattern-which I find very helpful.

strap slide

That’s it!  You are done!
Camille 4header

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