Vivian Sewalong Day 3: Interior

Hello Day #3 of the Swoon Vivian Sewalong!  Today is all about the interior!

We will be repeating several of the steps from yesterday.

Get one of your interior main panels.  Fold in half and hand press along the fold, making a noticeable crease.IMG_3688


Open up the panel, wrong side up.IMG_3689


Along the center crease, measure down 2″ for the handbag (3″ down for the traveler) Make a mark.

Make a second mark 1/2″ below your first mark.IMG_3690


For the handbag, measure 3.5″ on either side of the center crease along the top and bottom mark.  (4.5″ on either side for the traveler).   You will now have a lovely rectangle.

On both short sides, make a mark in the middle (1/4″)IMG_3691

From that middle mark, make another set of marks 1/2″ inside the rectangle on both short ends.  (my tiny little dots).IMG_3692

From that 1/2″ interior dot, draw diagonal lines from the dot to the corners of the rectangle. On both sides of the rectangle as below.IMG_3693

Finally, draw a line from the tip of the triangle to the other tip of the triangle.IMG_3694

Flip that main panel over to the right side and take your zipper pocket piece. Fold the pocket piece in half hot dog style to find the center.IMG_3695

Align the center of the pocket piece with the center crease of the main panel. The top of the pocket piece will be 1.5″ (2.5″ for traveler) from the top of the main panel.IMG_3696

Place pins along the very tippy top of the pocket piece pinning to the main panel (right sides together).  I also place a pin at the bottom of the pocket panel to avoid sewing the bottom of the pocket into my zipper (stranger things have happened).IMG_3697

Flip the panel to the wrong side again and sew along the main rectangle lines.  DO NOT sew the middle line!IMG_3698

Fold your panel in half and very carefully snip along the middle line about 1/2″ ish or so.IMG_3699

Open the panel up and finish cutting in one direction until you reach the tip of the triangle (you’ll be cutting along the middle line through the mail panel and pocket piece).

Then cut the diagonal lines but do not accidentally snip your stitching!
Repeat for the other side of the zipper rectangle. so that the middle line and the 4 diagonal lines are cut. (Don’t cut off the little triangles on the ends-my picture looks like I did, but don’t do that!)IMG_3701

Flip the panel over to the right side.  We want the pocket to look awesome and pressing is a HUGE part of that.  Pull the pocket piece up away and press along that seam.  This pressing will help turn the pocket in smoothly.IMG_3702

Do the same for each of the short sides.IMG_3703

And the top.IMG_3704


Push the pocket through the hole.IMG_3705

On the wrong side, I like to press the seam allowances open.  Again,this will help make your pocket look really nice.IMG_3706

Finally, press the pocket full to the wrong side of the main panel.  If your short ends look bunched, it’s possible you did not snip those diagonal lines to the stitching.  You want to snip it as closely as possible without cutting the thread!IMG_3707

Flip to the right side again and press really well!  See how nice that is?!IMG_3708

As we did with the main zipper, you can glue or tape, or both, this zipper.  Glue around the pocket piece.IMG_3709

Lot’s o’ purple glue.IMG_3710

Flip the panel to the right side and slide your zipper underneath.IMG_3711

Pin in place (or tape on the wrong side)  If you used glue, wait a few moments for it to dry.IMG_3712

Stitch around the entire zipper at 1/8″.IMG_3713


Flip the panel over AGAIN, and (unpin if necessary) fold the bottom of the pocket panel up and match the raw edges. Pin top of pocket piece together (don’t pin the main panel)IMG_3715

I like to sew the top of the pocket piece first.  I fold the top of the main panel and sew with the main panel up.  I feel that I can sew along the small allowance of the pocket more accurately this way.  Don’t sew through the main panel!

Sew right along that top allowance. THEN sew up each side of the pocket.  Be sure to move the main panel side out of the way when sewing the pocket.

Check out your pocket.  Make sure you love it.  If you don’t, then re-do it. Set aside when complete.IMG_3718

Take the two interior top panels.  We will repeat pretty much what we did with the exterior top panels. Pin the top panels right sides together.  Make marks 1/2″ from on each side along the straight edge.  Stitch the first 1/2″ with a regular stitch.  When you arrive at the first 1/2″ mark, back stitch, change to a basting stitch and stitch until you reach the second 1/2″ mark.  Change back to a regular stitch, back stitch and sew to the end.  Back stitch.


Press your seam allowance open.  Just as we did with the exterior, open up the basting stitches carefully. Take the interior bottom panels and sew them to the top panel ends.  Remember to press the allowance down towards the bottom panel and top stitch the allowance down.  Set aside.


Take your two interior main panels.  Place right sides together and sew along the bottom at 5/8″ seam allowance.IMG_3861

You can either trim the seam allowance or press it open and top stitch along each side at 1/4″.

On the wrong side of your interior main panels, center the stabilizer, leave 3/4″ on either side of the seam. IMG_3864


Fuse in place. (turn down your iron heat to fuse stabilizer)IMG_3865

Find the four “corners” of the top panel and the top centers of the main panels.  Match centers and sew the interior of the bag exactly how you sewed the exterior but with a 5/8″ seam allowance. If needed, you may need to make 1/8″ snips along the top panel where the main panel curves to help the top panel make the tight turn.
IMG_3922 Remember to match the centers, the pin along each side of one main panel.  Sew that side, then repeat for the other side of the bag. If you have any slack, put it in the top corners.

Turn the interior right side out and double check everything looks good. If something is wrong, re-do that area.
IMG_3924Come back tomorrow to finish sewing the bag!